
I woke just after dawn. Laying in the comfortable queen bed,
I smelled the salt air and I listened as the wind buffeted us
and rain splattered on the overhead. Faintly a harbor bell clanged.
Several spaces down a diesel "grummmed" into life and
settled into a slow idle, warming up for the day ahead.
Florence, Oregon! How many nights have I spent at this marina?
As a boy in the 50's and 60's my dad had kept a variety of fishing
boats here, and in 1964, I worked a summer as the Master Baiter
on a salmon charter boat based here. I moved far away in 1966
but managed to swing through every couple years and visit. And
while it has changed, like all our coast towns going from a small
family fishing boat economy to a tourist economy, there's still
some of the "Old Florence" left, like this marina, even
though today it is almost empty of boats....
But this spring day in the year 2001 we are not in a boat!
No, Gail and our old dog Teddy, and I are in a "Recreational
Vehicle", an RV, specifically, a new 2000 Pastime 8' 8"
"pickup camper." It has a "fore & aft"
queen bed extending over the cab of our diesel Dodge pickup.
It has a tiny bathroom, a galley, a furnace, pressure hot water,
an indoor and outdoor shower. It has a stereo and a telephone
jack. There's screens on the windows, an awning rolled on the
side, lawn chairs tied to the back, two bikes hooked to the roof
ladder, and a platform attached to the truck's front receiver
hitch where I carry an old Honda motorbike. It's amazing. A
friend when he saw it sneeringly said it looked like a "Bayliner"
boat, which, to a wood sailboat man, is like saying your mother
sleeps under the porch and bites the mailman. But that's alright.
If you had told me years ago I'd be sitting in this camper at
this marina instead of in a salmon troller I would have just laughed.
If you told me just 5 years ago that for the next two winters
we would cruise over 6,000 miles in pickup campers, finally
buying a brand new one and a Cummins Dodge pickup, I would have
thought you were hallucinating. And if you had told me 3 years
ago that July 2001 we would take delivery on a brand new 26' KOMFORT
5th wheel, with 12' slide, 16' awning, A/C, TV, telephone, micro-wave,
bathtub, CD/am/fm/weather channel sound system, ceiling fan, floor
ducted furnace, and even a freaking recliner chair, and in that
luxurious beast we'd cruise 7,000 miles in two winters, well,
I would have called the Men In White Coats with their butterfly
nets to come collect you before you harmed yourself....
But back to what I was saying. When this book idea came to
us we were in the camper, "docked" in a small RV park
at the old marina. Waking up aboard my dad's boat 35 years ago
to diesels idling would have signaled a new day of salmon fishing.
It was very odd being in the same place, 35 years later, but
experiencing it in such a different way; the morning wake ups
of diesel and gas engines idling signally not another day of fishing,
but rather, another day of folks, all ages and backgrounds, from
all over the country, disconnecting shore power and water, rolling
up awnings, walking the dog; getting ready for another leisurely
day of "land yachting," cruising on land....
I call it "Land Yachting" because it is JUST like
cruising in boats used to be until maybe the early 1970s. Until
then, people in boats could cruise pretty much anywhere they wanted,
and few of them were rich. There weren't to many doing it, and
those who were, found they were welcome anywhere. Guest docks
were common, and inexpensive. You could anchor practically anywhere
you pleased. And everybody was friendly.
It's a different world now! Real Estate prices have soared
and the resulting property taxes have closed many of the small
casually run marinas or forced them into remodeling and charging
accordingly. The collapse of sports fishing, thanks to corporate
trawlers scraping the bottom clean and "Native American"
nets corralling anything that swims up the river, didn't help
either and has driven out of business many of the little marinas
that catered to the sports fishing crowd.
Too many waterfront home owners get annoyed seeing a boat anchor
for free in "their" cove, and resulting legislation
has drastically cut down that freedom.
Just keeping a boat is expensive; city marina moorage rates
have made it hard for a middle income family to even park a boat,
and smaller boats in many cities can be bought for peanuts because
the people who would like them, can't afford to pay the monthly
moorage for them.
This of course has effected boat prices. When inexpensive
mooring disappears, so do inexpensive boats. Even trailer boats
are effected since now days many neighborhoods have "covenants"
forbidding parking a boat in your driveway. New boat prices are
unbelievable when compared to what you can do in the RV world.
I rarely buy new, and NEVER pay retail, but, for the sake of
conversation lets take new numbers.
A 2008 Cummins diesel 4 x 4 Dodge depending on options costs
about 35K to 50K. A 26' trailer is the biggest we suggest you
look at because that will fit into any state park slip yet is
big enough to be very comfortable. KOMFORT is a good quality
production builder, and a new 26' KOMFORT 5th wheel is 27K, or
between about 62K to 77K plus taxes for the both. This isn't chump
change, but that same amount is just the down payment on a new
powerboat big enough to spend any time on. Figure 360 to 420K
"base price" (dock lines, anchor, etc. are extra) for
a new 40' production built powerboat with the features the 26'
5th wheel has, not counting the several hundred a month to dock
the damned thing.
If you've been involved with boating for some time you might,
at the risk of me sounding rather pompous for a moment, be familiar
with my name. I've been an active yacht designer since the mid
1970s. I've written several books about boats, numerous boat
magazine articles, a brochure telling how to use a sextant. I've
built several boats and lived aboard several boats. I sailed
an engineless sailboat from San Francisco into Mexico and over
to Hawaii and I've sailed on sailboats or putted in powerboats
on many bays and seas around the world. Sitting in our yard now
is a 3/4 finished 50' wood schooner, a craft that 20 years ago
was my all time fantasy but now, sadly, just sits unfinished.
So for me to get so involved in RV stuff that I would want to
write a book about it is almost a joke! I say almost, because
I'm hooked. This cruising on land is great. Thousands and thousands
of folks are doing it and it's so big it is not only a sub-culture,
but there's subcultures within it!
How did this happen?
We live in western Washington State; the Pacific NW. I've
been many places so I'm saying this with some perspective, I ain't
seen anywhere as pleasant as the Pacific NW in the summer. In
the summer the sun starts showing at 4:30 AM and it doesn't get
dark until almost 11 PM. Up here in Washington there's no bugs
to speak of, little humidity, no poison oak, poisonous snakes,
or killer bees. There's mountains and still a few huge trees
left and once you leave the few cities there are eagles, bears,
cougars, fish; you can drive miles and miles and still be in the
country. There aren't to many people yet.
But winters up here are another matter; while they are mild
they are absolutely miserable. Here on the west side of the Cascades
they aren't really cold; it rarely snows, infrequently freezes.
Many winters I never even wear a heavy coat. But I hate winter
here; it is an oppressive and depressing time. It doesn't get
light until 7:30 and then it's dark by 4:30. It rains or at least
drizzles all the time so the predominate color is gray. We own
a cabin over on the coast and last year there was 102" inches
of rain. That's over eight and a half FEET.
But at least that is honest rain. Here on Whidbey Island,
near Seattle, where we live, there is normally only 3' of rain.
But it comes as drizzle. Steady drizzle. Eight months solid
and sometimes summer doesn't even come for the drizzle. Everything
is damp and moldy here in the NW in the winter including sometimes
even your spirits.
For some years we fought this by flying off on vacations.
We'd go to Mexico or southern California or even southern Europe.
One year we went to Baja and almost bought a house, stopping
only because I didn't feel old enough to buy a place there and
then be committed to going just there every year. There's to
many places to see!
And that's how we got into RVs. Gail was set on the Mexican
house so, like the way many husbands handle situations they really
don't want to follow through, I got sneaky. I didn't immediately
say I didn't want one or say flat "NO." "No"
doesn't work on Gail; she'll do it if she wants to. Instead,
I suggested since we didn't see anything that was exactly what
we wanted, let's buy a trailer, tow it down, buy property and
park the trailer on it, and BUILD a house. I described a walled
property with a small building for bedrooms and bathrooms, with
the rest of the living area outside; typical Latin American digs
because of the warm climate, and very pleasant. I described pleasant
times shopping for local tiles and furniture, and in the afternoons
meandering down to the town center for a cold beer.
She went for it.
So we started looking for a trailer. Since we didn't know
a damned thing about RVs we didn't know what we were looking at.
It was 6 years later which translates to one trailer, two campers,
and a 5th wheel, that we realized the first rig we saw was perfect
and way under priced. We didn't buy it and it sold the day after
we saw it. But that's the way it goes. We were to new to it
to understand what we needed and THAT is an important point for
you to think about. Before you spend thousands or go into serious
hock, get some experience so you know what you want. Buy a second
hand late model version or an older one with ALL SYSTEMS WORKING,
something that looks like what you THINK you want, and try it.
If you find you don't like it you can sell it a year later and
not loose to much money, and, it might actually really be what
you want! But either way, if you do that, now you'll have some
practical experience to call upon when shopping for what you DO
want! Or of course, like some couples, you could discover that
traveling in a small space gets to you and you'll decide you can't
handle long term RV stuff. That doesn't mean you still can't
do it. But your choice of "rig" will be something
ideally suited and outfitted for weekends and short hops.
We ended up buying a 15 year old 24 footer that was only $2500;
it needed "a little work" but I didn't mind that. I've
fixed up enough old boats and cars that the trailer didn't seem
a big thing. The fact that the hippie girl who had been living
in it had painted the interior burgundy didn't stop me; I'd repaint
it. The fact that the floor was a bit bouncy (due to rot) didn't
bother me; I could fix that. I sure wish I'd had them demo the
systems aboard because the furnace didn't work, the batteries
were shot, and I didn't know how to work the holding tanks.
What we ended up with was a 2500 dollar piece of junk that
we spent weeks cleaning and fixing and painting. We bought a
new furnace. We put down new carpets. Thankfully before we bought
new batteries, re-upholstered it, installed an awning, had the
brakes and bearings gone over, and mounted new tires, I realized
it was to heavy to easily tow so resold it for $2500, loosing
around 1,000 bucks and an awful lot of time on the deal. BUT,
it was worth it all because we learned a great deal from it, the
bottom line being I'm not going to fix up some old beater again!
The exception, and I hope somebody comes up and kicks me in the
behind if I actually do it, would be if I wanted to restore something
"cute" like an antique Air Stream or a sheep herder's
pickup camper. OK, that sort of thing at least can be rationalized.
But buying a 15 or 20 year old broken down rig is a mistake;
for little more than it will cost you buying something like our
first trailer, you can find one that has been cared for and everything
works. You might want to re-upholster it, maybe the carpets are
ugly. But don't look at anything that isn't all "there"
and working. You'll save a lot of time and probably money too!

The recession has slowed things but if you think about it, RVs make even more sense today for family recreation and vacations. Airstream is one of the most expensive out there and they don't have "tilt outs", but they have a "cult status so sell well!
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